Sak pase!
As the least formal member of our group, this is my favorite greeting. It's equivalent to "what's up, yo" and is best accompanied by some type of hip high five or fist pump. For almost 2 weeks now, we have been enjoying the hospitality of the organization NPH (Nos Petit Freres et Soeurs- Our Little Brothers and Sisters) and learning about the medical system at 2 hospitals in Port au Prince, Haiti. NPH is a non-governmental organization that began in Latin America and has grown to include programs in both countries of Hispaniola (Haiti and Dominican Republic). With a multi-pronged approach, in addition to its pediatric hospital (St. Damien), NPH's programs include orphanages, a free primary school, a rehabilitation center for children and adults, a special needs school, and a pre-school. They provide housing for volunteers and guests, which is adjacent to a cluster of their programs in Port au Prince.
Our chalets have electricity almost continuously, with gloriously cold running water and beds with mosquito nets hanging from the ceiling (sea foam green princess mosquito nets with sequins and beads for the lucky ones). We have fresh rolls baked in an NPH program for breakfast with a steady supply of nutella and peanut butter. We usually have mangos, pineapple, watermelon, and hard-boiled eggs along with our deliciously rich coffee each morning. Some of us converse with the friendly cat who answers to either Obama or Scabio (named for her high fungal and parasite load) prior to the short 10 min walk to St. Luc (hospital for people > 13 years old).
Chalets where we are staying
As Calla mentioned in her latest piece, a few of us have had the opportunity to enjoy daily 7 am rounds at St. Luc, when we walk from bed to bed and the night general doctor (not yet completed residency) rounds with the internal medicine doctor (completed IM residency specialization) and hands off the patients to the day team. We have been impressed with the incidence of chronic disease in proportion to infectious disease. In the inpatient ward, they usually have a section of CVA's next to a section of fever with diarrhea, cough, or nuchal rigidity. Unfortunately high blood pressures in the 240s/140s are not uncommon and are accompanied by hemiplegia along with CT scans with hypo or hyperdensities indicative of ischemic or hemorrhagic strokes. After days of particularly brisk wind and associated dust, we enter the emergency room to see clusters of young patients tripoding with albuterol nebs flowing. We have seen many 16 year old patients with sickle cell or fever with cough as well as the sequelae of home births with absence of prenatal care and hemorrhage or post-partum cardiomyopathy. There is reluctance to seek pre- natal care in part because pre-natal vitamins have been known to encourage larger infants. This raises mortality risk at delivery. St. Luc's collaborates with an infectious disease center across the street, GHESKIO, and patients with a positive HIV or TB test who are stable on room air are transferred to GHESKIO for further evaluation, treatment, education, psychosocial support, and continuity care for these conditions.
After rounds, we walk back to our chalets at Villa Francesca to refill water bottles and enjoy a meal cooked at the NPH-associated restaurant. This bean sauce with hot green peppers over rice with cooked vegetables (ranging from startlingly fuchsia beet potato salad to cabbage and carrots) is undeniably the tastiest lunch imaginable. I can't even begin to describe the mouth- watering, taste-bud tingling, thirst-quenching juice offered each lunch.
The afternoon is filled with discussing patients triaged to the emergency room at St. Luc's with the Haitian doctors and monitoring the evolution of particularly interesting cases from the days prior. We have been broadening differential diagnoses while offering thoughts about patient care. Thorough clinical exams are essential, as patients must pay for IV injections after 24 hrs and pills after 3 days. If a test can be done at St. Luc it is free of charge (headCT, hemogram, bmp) but if the family must bring the sample to an outside lab the family must pay (thoracentesis sample, lipase, thyroid studies). Most of the pleural effusions are not tested, and lumbar punctures are not generally performed as the samples must be analyzed in outside labs.
Today we visited an endoscopy suite, where one Haitian doctor has been trained to do endoscopies to band varices, perform embolizations, and biopsy for h pylori and gastric cancer. These procedures are offered at a greatly reduced price for clinic patients in comparison to private clinics (10 times more).
Endoscopy suite
By 5pm we leave for the day to walk home in pairs and unwind-- each of us in his or her own manner. Calla's callisthenic "movements" are a highlight of many evenings, especially when Adam dons his matching workout uniform. We discuss concerning cases while listening to music, attempting to trick the Wi-Fi into allowing us to send a few emails and connect with home. Dinner is serenaded by Obama/Scabio who demands gifts of food deposits behind the kitchen. She curls up in the bookshelf for the night as we finish dinner and gladly remember we took our malarone in the am.
As Adam so aptly declares, "These bugs, they be immune." During our daily mosquito bite monitoring sessions, Adam has remained firmly in the lead. Our official mosquito magnet, he endorses 98.11% deet spray TID along with his daily malarone.
Each night I am thankful for the particular mix of personalities of my travel companions. Abby's immense heart is available at all moments for discussion of intense emotional moments. Her ultrasound skills are quite valuable. She is also making great progress on development of a sarcastic side. Adam's vast medical knowledge allows him to offer suggestions and broaden differentials. His quick wit provokes laughter frequently--among Haitians and in our travel group. Calla's indefatigable spirit and boundless energy (which she refers to as "being squirrely") lights up the wards. Her word-for-word translations from the inspiring doctor trained in Cuba are invaluable. As Abby proclaimed tonight, "Calla, I just need more of you in my life for some more sunniness."
I'm not really sure how I was so lucky, but these are my travel companions... who I harass freely and frequently (given my innate instigating tendencies). In such a welcoming Haitian community and with the strong emotional support of my companions, I look forward to learning more creole and medicine in the following 2 weeks. One doctor at St.Luc today was laying the groundwork for future collaboration as he announced that after our month we could return to finish our studies, however we would soon return to work in Haiti for 2 yrs or so.
Time to turn the lights out and tuck in the mosquito net.
Bon Nwit (good night)
-- Hope
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